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CHATTANOOGA BICYCLE CLUB


PUERTO RICO BIKE TOUR
October 10-18, 1998

by John Whiteley

It's not where you've been, but what you've experienced that matters.

The Chattanooga Bicycle Club is planning an adventure tour of the island of Puerto Rico this fall. The trip is re-scheduled for the week of February 20-28, 1999. The 9-day tour will allow cyclists to experience the real Puerto Rico, the country outside the metropolis of San Juan.

After getting settled in on Saturday (and maybe sampling one of the nicest beaches in the Caribbean), the tour gets underway on Sunday with a bike ride to Old San Juan. The streets of this 500-year old walled city are almost deserted on a Sunday morning, with the music and voices from the Cathedral and churches lending a softness to the early morning breezes. We'll have an opportunity to visit the forts of El Morro and San Cristobal (both of which are World Heritage Sites), have a snack of pan tostada y cafe con leche, and wander the narrow, cobblestoned streets and quaint parks before setting off across San Juan Bay on the Catano ferry. Then, with the wind at our backs we'll follow the gently rolling coast road to Arecibo and spend our first night on the road at the newest parador in Puerto Rico. (Paradores, are small country hotels or guest houses that have been inspected and approved annually by the Puerto Rico Tourism Board.)

The next day will give us a choice of routes as we ride our way to Boqueron on the southeast coast. Those of us who want to travel the gently rolling coast road will go through Isabela, Aguadilla (site of Columbus' first landing in Puerto Rice), and Mayaguez. While those of us who are looking for a ride with a little more challenge will climb the foothills on the way to San Sebastian then go to Boqueron. Then we'll have a rest day in Boqueron. This will give us a chance to relax and enjoy the amenities of this more rural part of Puerto Rico. In addition to the famous beaches of Boqueron, we can visit San German, the second oldest city on the island, where we can tour the famous cathedrals and one of the old mansions. There is also the possibility of a night trip to La Parguera to view the phosphorescent bay. Again, those of us who are in for more of a challenge can climb the area's mountains to visit a coffee plantation. And, of course, a day of total relaxation isn't out of the question!

After our rest, we'll go to Ponce, the "pearl of the South" and Puerto Rico's second largest city. Enroute we'll visit Guanica, where the American troops landed during the Spanish American War of 1898. A flat road through old sugar cane plantations takes us to Yauco, the coffee center of the island, and then to Guayanilla and Ponce. Again, those of us who want to climb can take the road to Penuelas, route of a famous (and difficult) Puerto Rican bicycle race, a route that is guaranteed to take your breath away, and not just from the views. In Ponce our hotel is located in the center of the historic district, across the street from the famous Parque de Bonbas or old fire house. We'll have a chance to visit the largest art museum in the Caribbean, an ancient Indian ceremonial ground, and the castle built by the family that makes Don Q Rum.

After Ponce, we'll take the flat coastal road through Santa Isabela, Salinas, Aquirre, and Guayama to Patillas where we'll stay in a parador right on the Caribbean beach. Again, there will be a climbing option for those who desire it. The flat coastal route takes us past banana plantations and sugar cane fields, and through a quieter, more rural Puerto Rico than most tourists find. This is not a tourist area, although the breathtaking views of the mountains off to the left and the sparkling waters of the Caribbean on the right make you wonder why this area hasn't been discovered yet. Then again, you may find yourself happy that it has managed to retain its old time charm.

The next day will take us past the tourist areas! We'll start by climbing over the eastern terminus of the Ruta Panoramica. The Ruta Panoramica, or Panoramic Route, is an automobile route that follows the tops of the mountains from one end of Puerto Rico to the other. While the route goes higher than 4000 feet in places, we will have a lot less elevation to gain. It is definitely a climb, but it's easier than, say, Sand Mountain. Then we'll skirt the resort area of Humacao and the US Naval Base at Roosevelt Roads on our way to the resort town of Fajardo.

Our last day on the road will bring us back to San Juan by way of the old Indian city of Canovanas, the African slave town of Loiza Aldea, and the coast road through Boca de Cangrejos. We'll spend our last night on the island packing our bikes, taking a dip in the ocean, and recounting all that we've experienced during the past week while we relax at a guest house on the beach.

The roads we'll be taking are flat to gently rolling with only a couple of moderate climbs. There will be hill climbing options for those of us who are more adventurous (or masochistic). Average mileage will be 50-70 miles, with the total mileage for the trip being about 310. We'll have a van to transport our gear from town to town -- all we'll have to do is ride our bikes. At night we'll stay in guest houses or paradores, small country hotels that have been inspected and approved annually by the Puerto Rico Tourism Board. Most of the guest houses and paradores are members of the Meson Gastronomique program that emphasizes fine local cuisine, and there are opportunities galore to sample the local specialties at restaurants and food stands along the way. And, of course, you can't go anyplace in the world anymore without finding the Golden Arches and its relatives, so you can stick with familiar food if you have little sense of gastronomic adventure. The trip will be an adventure, too! Your tour guide has traveled the entire route, but about half of it was done twenty years ago by car, not by bike, so we'll be learning together. Don't worry, though -- the roads are good, excellent maps make navigation easy, and many of the residents speak English. (John speaks some Spanish, too.) Attire for the trip will be very, very casual.

What's the cost? Only $1200 per person, double occupancy, including round trip airfare (including any bike surcharges), eight nights lodging, and baggage transportation.. You're on your own for meals, adult beverages, souvenirs, side tours, and bike repairs along the way. We are arranging for a van to transport our baggage -- all we'll have to do is ride our bikes. We're working out an arrangement to get our bikes boxed for transport and we'll have a place to store the boxes while we're in Puerto Rico. Also, this is designed to be a zero-sum, non-profit benefit of your club membership. When the trip is finished, if there's any money left over, it will be refunded to the participants.

Interested? If so, call John Whiteley at 423/365-9706 or Daisy Blanton at 706/820-1157 or email 75464.446@compuserve.com. (Daisy might be the best one to call, since she isn't away at sea all the time.)

Come visit the "Continent of Puerto Rico" before it (possibly) becomes the 51st state, and discover a Caribbean jewel that few tourists ever see. Hope to hear from you soon!

This is from Daisy:
As most of you know we had to cancel the originally planned trip due to the damage done by huricane Georges. We are re-scheduling it for the week of February 20-28. John is working on the reservations now. Unfortunately some of the people who originally planned to go will not be able to in February. So this is the opportunity for those of you who couldn't go in October. We are not sure what affect the change in dates will make on the cost of the trip. We were able to keep the original cost down to $1200 and hope this will not change much.
Please let me know if you are interested. It's really a unique opportunity that may not be available again!!

For those of you who do not know John Whiteley, let me tell you a little about him - he's a person you will really enjoy getting to know. John works as captain of a seagoing 'tugboat' that hauls seagoing cargo from the US to Puerto Rico. His home is in Spring City but his work is based out of Jacksonville, FL and Puerto Rico. Previous to this, he worked as director of several different Girl and Boy Scout camps in the area. And previous to that, he worked with the merchant marine, again based in Puerto Rico. So he knows the island well!! (I may not have the terminolgy correct but you get the idea.) Besides that, he is one of the nicest and most interesting people you can ever hope to meet. Also he is the author of Sidelong Cycling a regular feature in our newsletter and on this web site as well as past president of CBC until his work took him away.

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